Mark Hartell on his way to victory in the 2008 Fellsman

One of the toughest events in the fellrunning calendar takes place this weekend when close to 400 competitors will climb a total of 3,350m (11,000ft) during the route across the highest ground in the Yorkshire Dales.

And this year’s Fellsman will have a new winner: previous master of the event Mark Hartell has confirmed he won’t be taking part, after a record-breaking 11 wins in the 100km (62-mile) hike across the hills.

Organisers say there are still a few places left for anyone fit enough to tackle the test of stamina, mental resolve and navigational ability over some of the toughest terrain in Yorkshire. After years of slowly declining entries, the 47th Fellsman is back in popularity and close to its limit of 450 competitors – a mix of mainly ultra runners and determined walkers, who take between 10 and 29 hours to cover the course.

The Fellsman Hike was first run in 1962, when 57 determined souls started the trek across the Dales. Only 15 finished and the event still has a high dropout rate which can be increased when bad weather hits. 177 of last year’s 299 starters reached the finish line in Threshfield.

Macclesfield-based Mark Hartell holds the record for the Fellsman: an impressive 10hrs 15mins set in 2005. But this year, Hartell’s attentions have been focused on the other side of the Atlantic, where he set a time of less than ten hours in a similar 100km race in California’s Marin County on Saturday.

Mark told grough: “It was 10,000ft of ascent and a very wet day! My first sub-ten-hour time for the distance – 9hrs 54 mins –  but its way more runnable than Fellsman for the fleet of foot,  so I only scored 16th spot.”

It is clear, however, that the Fellsman has permeated Hartell’s consciousness. He said: “This is the first time for many years that I will not be standing in an Ingleton field on a cool Saturday morning in May filled with excitement and nervousness.

“No matter how many times you trace that sweeping arc across the dales and moors of God’s own country at its finest time of year, the route and the event hold a special magic.

Fellsman competitors start the climb to Grarareth out of Kingsdale

“It will always be a challenge; it always provides some simple, uncluttered time where the objective is singular: just keep moving forwards at whatever pace you can. If you can wear a smile and enjoy the surroundings all the better, if not just keep moving forwards anyway – the rewards will come. The satisfaction once the mud has been washed away and the gear has been sorted lasts for much, much longer than the pain and discomfort.”

The man whose fitness and ability has enabled him to set so many fast times on the course has also tasted defeat and understands the effort every competitor has to put in simply to finish the gruelling route.

He told us: “As I discovered aged 19, not completing the course is also an experience that sticks in the mind, but if at first you do or did not succeed, renew the commitment; for that sweet success is something that runs so much deeper than anything you can buy or trade.

“And for those who will successfully face down the dark, small hours and persevere over 20 hours or more, my respect is all the deeper: you are tough!

“Good luck one and all. Think of it as your day; many, many people are giving of their own time to make it go well for you. Thank them and enjoy.”

The Fellsman takes in Ingleborough, Whernside, Gragareth, Great Coum, Blea Moor, Great Knoutberry, Dodd Fell, Middle Tongue, Buckden Pike and Great Whernside as it cuts its way in a great horseshoe from Ingleton to Threshfield. Among the competitors will be Stuart Walker, who is in training for his mammoth 2,250km (1,400-mile) journey using only muscle power from the southern tip of the British Isles near the Isles of Scilly to a rocky stack north of Shetland.

Hikers head for the clouds on the ascent of Ingleborough

But who does Hartell fancy may take his crown? “I have an idea who will be at the front,” he said, “But I am not sure whether it’s fair to put pressure on individuals. Suffice to say, I am looking for Team Vasque [his own team] members to make a good showing in both male and female categories.

“I will, of course, be watching events at the weekend and, if I thought the body could take it, will try to return to the Fellsman in the next year or two.

“I might have to change my objectives though; perhaps shepherding newcomers round might be more my capabilities in the future.”

The Fellsman is organised by Keighley Scout Service Team and starts at 9am this Saturday, 9 May from the Ingleborough Community Centre in Ingleton and finishes at Upper Wharfedale School, Threshfield. Expect the first runners back any time from 7pm onwards, with the final walkers arriving at lunchtime on Sunday 10 May. Don’t be tempted to give the hikers any help: the rules say that will lead to instant disqualification.