Doug Scott cralws down The Ogre after breaking both legs. Photo: Clive Rowland

Doug Scott cralws down The Ogre after breaking both legs. Photo: Clive Rowland

Britain’s joint first Everest summiteer will embark on the Scottish leg of his lecture tour in May.

Audiences will be able to hear a choice of two accounts from Doug Scott: his ascent of the world’s highest mountain and the near disaster on The Ogre in Pakistan.

Proceeds will help local organisations and Community Action Nepal, the charity founded by the British mountaineer.

The talks will take place during May.

A spokesperson for CAN said of the Everest lecture: “Doug Scott gives a fascinating insight into how a lad born in Nottingham during the darkest days of the Second World War got into climbing on the Black Rocks in Derbyshire, aided with nothing but his mother’s clothes line, and how this led him to Everest in 1975.

“At dusk on 24 September, Doug and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit of Everest as lead climbers on Chris Bonington’s epic expedition to the mountain’s south-west face.

“As darkness fell they scraped a small cave in the snow 100m below the summit and survived the highest bivouac ever, without bottled oxygen, sleeping bags and, as it turned out, frostbite.

“For Doug Scott, it was the fulfilment of a fortune teller’s prophesy given to his mother: that her eldest son would be in danger in a high place with the whole world watching.

“Scott and Haston returned home national heroes with their image splashed across the front pages. Scott went on to become one of Britain’s greatest ever mountaineers, pioneering new climbs in the remotest corners of the globe. His career spans the golden age of British climbing from the 1960s boom in outdoor adventure, to the new wave of lightweight alpinism throughout the 1970s and 1980s.”

Two years later, Scott and Chris Bonington got into serious difficulties on Baintha Brakk, the 7,285m (23,901ft) Karakorum peak known as The Ogre.

The spokesperson said: “Doug will be telling the story of the first ascent of The Ogre. It was their subsequent descent from the summit in the dark, turning a catalogue of disasters that would have defeated most people into an epic, which has since entered mountaineering folklore. It was 24 years before The Ogre was climbed again.

“Doug will be telling a thrilling story of hard climbing, team work and survival against all odds, in his famously laconic and humorous style.

“The talk has been refreshed with the aid of photographs and material from diaries from other members of the team – Chris Bonington, Nick Estcourt and Clive Rowland – plus cine film and audio tapes recently discovered in an attic and made by the late Mo Anthoine on the expedition.”

Doug Scott on Everest in 1975. Photo: Doug Scott

Doug Scott on Everest in 1975. Photo: Doug Scott

The lecture tour begins on 2 May at Ayr with an account of The Ogre expedition. There will be two further talks on the Baintha Brakk climb and five Everest talks.

Proceeds from the sale of Nepalese goods and Namaste cards throughout each evening, and post-talk auctions of framed mountaineering prints signed by the likes of Reinhold Messner, Sir Chris Bonington and Stephen Venables, will support the work of the UK-registered charity, Community Action Nepal.

CAN was founded by Scott in 1995 to help some of the poorest and most remote communities in Nepal help themselves. He will also provide the audiences with an update on progress being made with the post-earthquake reconstruction of CAN’s projects – mainly rural health posts, school, hostels and porter rescue shelters, plus new projects.

Scott will also be signing posters and copies of his autobiography Up And About and his latest book, The Ogre – Biography of a mountain and the dramatic story of the first ascent.

Details of the lectures are on the Community Action Nepal website.

Some articles the site thinks might be related:

  1. Everest summiteer Doug Scott appeal for funds for charity to help Nepal victims
  2. Bonington and Scott lead new ‘Everest attempt’ to raise cash for Nepal victims
  3. Scott and Greaves become mountain council patrons
  4. Scott helps draft new mountain ethics code
  5. Bonington’s Old Man of Hoy ascent to air on BBC’s The One Show tonight