Mountaineer Doug Scott has died after being diagnosed with a brain tumour. Photo: Bob Smith/grough

Mountaineer Doug Scott has died after being diagnosed with a brain tumour. Photo: Bob Smith/grough

Celebrated mountaineer Doug Scott has died, aged 79.

Along with Dougal Haston, he was the first Briton to summit Everest, climbing the world’s highest peak via the south-west face in 1975.

Mr Scott passed away at his northern Lake District home early on Monday. He had been diagnosed with a brain tumour in spring.

Nottingham-born Scott posted many memorable ascents and was also in later life active in supporting the people of the Himalayan area through the charity Community Action Nepal, which he founded.

Scott made 30 first ascents in the greater ranges and throughout the world. His ascent of Everest was accomplished after bivouacking with Haston in a small snow cave without oxygen, 100m below the summit.

Two years later, Scott and Chris Bonington got into serious difficulties on Baintha Brakk, the 7,285m (23,901ft) Karakorum peak known as The Ogre. He managed, with the help of fellow climbers, to make his way off the mountain despite suffering two broken ankles in a fall.

He started climbing at the age of 13 after his interest was sparked during trips to the Peak District. He was a pioneer of the alpine style of lightweight climbing and excelled at big-wall and high-altitude ascents.

Among notable climbs were Mount Asgard on Baffin Island, El Capitan in Yosemite, Denali in Alaska, Changabang, Nuptse, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma and Shivling in the Himalaya.

Dough Scott was a past president of the Alpine Club and received the Piolet d’Or lifetime achievement award.

He later undertook numerous lecture tours to raise funds for Community Action Nepal.

A spokesperson for the charity said: “He passed away peacefully in his sleep this morning, surrounded by his family. He was in good spirits right until the end and never stopped fighting.”

Some articles the site thinks might be related:

  1. Everest climber Doug Scott embarks on lecture tour for Nepal charity
  2. Everest summiteer Doug Scott appeal for funds for charity to help Nepal victims
  3. Bonington and Scott lead new ‘Everest attempt’ to raise cash for Nepal victims
  4. Scott and Greaves become mountain council patrons
  5. Nine ascents and 135 characters for a Cool Everest record